Split is the second-largest city in Croatia after the capital, Zagreb, with a population of just over 178,000. Like Dubrovnik, it sits on Croatia’s eastern shore and possesses a unique charm.
Split is packed with shops, restaurants, bars, nightclubs, and, of course, gelato stands. I’m not exaggerating when I say it feels like there’s a gelato shop on nearly every corner, making it entirely possible to enjoy it with every meal. No stand stood out as being particularly better than the rest, although if you were lucky enough to stumble upon one tucked away in a quieter spot, you might just avoid the crowds.
Speaking of the main strip, it has everything I mentioned earlier, but it also comes with a foul smell, reminiscent of underground sewage. At first, Jessi and I assumed the smell came from a burst pipe, but we later learned it was actually sulfur from the sea, which is more common than you might think. Normally, I can’t handle strong odors because of my sensitive nose, but I quickly became acclimated to it. I tried to dine at restaurants and browse at shops off the main strip to avoid it, yet the breathtaking scenery kept pulling me back in. Lining the dock are boats of all sizes, creating a stunning view during golden hour. Many evenings ended with watching the gorgeous sunset, paired with the distinct scent of sulfur, an odd combination, but one that faded once night fell.
Jessi and I discovered the most incredible sushi restaurant I’ve ever been to. The fish was very fresh and full of flavor. What Jessi doesn’t know, until now, is that I actually went back without her one evening while she was at a massage appointment. No regrets. Back home in California, I already have a borderline sushi addiction and can easily eat it twice a week. Add ramen, vegetable dumplings, and bags of candy from the local sweet shop to the list, and you’ve got all my weaknesses covered. Again, I have to admit, the food here puts most of what I eat in America to shame (except some California Sushi – always fresh and delicious).
TOURS
We went on many tours during our time in Croatia, but I have to say that my favorite tour was the Island Hopping Speed Boat Tour. Two of my favorite activities, island hopping and a good old adrenaline rush.
I didn’t know what type of adventure I was in for when I signed up for the ‘speedboat tour’ on the Viator app. I assumed it would be a typical leisure boat, fast, but nothing too jarring. It turns out, these were the kinds of high-powered speed boats lifeguards use for ocean rescues. These were more along the lines of military craft boats rather than tourist vessels. I was excited and nervous at the same time. Others decided to opt out of the tour minutes before getting on board once they saw the type of adventure that awaited them.
The boats held about twelve people, and we were joined by a lovely Indian family, a couple with their children. Just minutes after we departed, the woman sitting across from me began to look nauseous. I worried for her, knowing the waters would be much more intense on our return around 6PM and I was right (more on that later).
Our first stop was the blue cave located on Bisevo Island. A two-hour roller coaster ride from the mainland will certainly give you a little something to smile about. The low nutrition levels in the water is due to a small amount of algae growth, which gives the water that striking shade of blue that have us all blinking twice. In my opinion, the most magical part of the cave was the light streaming in beneath the rocks, illuminating the water so clearly that you could practically see all the way to the bottom. It was incredibly inviting, until you see all the Jellyfish surrounding the boat… that is, making the desire to jump in slightly less appealing.
Bisevo Island has a rich history of early monastic settlements, private raids, and its current status as a popular tourist destination. A benedictine monastery was established in the 11th century, but abandoned later due to pirates entering the grounds. The island’s population has also significantly decreased over time. Just a little fun history for ya.
We visited three other islands on our tour; Vis Island, where parts of Mamma Mia was filmed, another island whose name escapes me, and finally Hvar. Hvar is a beautiful town in Croatia where yachts fills the harbor during summertime. While we visited during the day, I image the nighttime to be ten times more magical, with stars filling the night sky and a sea breeze that gives your nervous system a giant hug. For a brief moment, I stepped out onto one of the many docks on the island and looked out towards the distance. The sea has always held a power over me, allowing me to feel like I’m in a daze of content, leaving behind the pre-existing qualities that make me who I am and who I am not. It’s often in these fleeting moments that I find I am most honest with myself. Sometimes, the beauty that I see brings me pain, but also allows me to reflect and grow. I enjoy the way I feel when I’m looking out into the unknown, wondering what else is out there to discover, within myself and and within the world around me. The beauty in growth lies in its endlessness. I find comfort in knowing that I will, hopefully, never be done growing, even in my final moments. I pray this be true for you as well.
The day ended with sipping chilled red wine on a rooftop and eating fresh, Croatian cuisine. Certainly not a bad way to end the day. 🙂